True confession: I thought playing the Furnace Creek Golf Course in hot, dry and sometimes dangerous Death Valley, California was going to be worth it simply for the fluke of it.
You know what I mean: One of those strange but true golf rounds you take on just for the future witty cocktail party banter. The bragging rights.
True revelation: A Furnace Creek Golf Course experience, paired with a stay at the newly renovated The Oasis at Death Valley (https://www.oasisatdeathvalley.com), isn’t a fluke.
Because while there’s only one 18-hole course to play there, the totality of the experience; from the superbly maintained course to the adorable and comfortable Oasis to the endless unique offerings of Death Valley itself, make it a one-place-on-earth worthy golf experience that you simply must experience.
Move it from your “never heard of it,” list, past your “some day down the road bucket ” list and directly to your “plan it now; it’s worth it,” list.
My trip there was seamless. Since Las Vegas is the airport of choice, it’s easy to find direct flights, as I did on Delta. Once landed and rental car secured, it’s about a two-hour, super interesting ride to The Oasis itself.
Death Valley is no stranger to me: I’ve taken on the JDRF Ride to Cure Diabetes one-day 100-mile bike ride there five times in the past. But arriving for golf, sightseeing and relaxing was a revelation to me. There’s something about that breathtaking desert setting that just opens you up to joy.
I checked in and was delighted to see the new cottages at The Ranch at Death Valley, as well as the new buildings, dining spots and more. The cottages are set along little tree-lined streets created just before the golf course. What was formerly grey, dusty desert is now shady, pretty and homey enough for me to say to someone, “Oh! That’s right in my neighborhood!”
And while in the past food choices were quite limited there, you now find multiple choices from a classic western bar to an adorable ice cream parlor and more. It’s like its own little village, and while it leans into the desert/western vibe, it’s not one bit hokey. It works.
But I’m there for the golf. I’ve played desert golf many times; I actually find my game improves with target golf. I was expecting a lot of unclaimed desert with some small, well-maintained green patches to aim for. After all, water is a huge issue at most courses in the world, particularly in California and that region.
Surprise, surprise. Furnace Creek spreads out lush and green, with pristinely maintained fairways, tee boxes and but for one, greens. And while there wasn’t an abundance of water, there are water features. With the soaring desert mountains outlining your view from every angle and the stark grey shades of the desert just past each fairway, it’s like a lush green – I have to say it: oasis – was plunked down in the middle of the hottest place on earth.
Here’s the secret: One of the world’s most abundant aquifers sits – ironically – just under Death Valley. That means course managers can draw all the water they want at just about any time – and not negatively impact the climate or area. Geologists estimate that the water travels for 15,000 years along a 50-mile fault line to the aquifer.
The course is not a long one, but it’s one that makes you think. (There’s a reason Golf Digest ranks it one of the top 50 toughest courses in America). Cleverly placed obstructions and tricky sightlines mean your second time through makes more sense. But that doesn’t mean the first time isn’t fun.
Plus, it takes some adjustment. The low altitude (at 214 below sea level it lays claim to being the lowest course on earth) paired with the low barometric pressure works to cut down a bit on your distance. But my group found that the change was easy to adapt to. While we had to remind ourselves to go up a club often, it worked well.
There’s a nice mix of long and short – a birdy on the par 3 second hole was a nice way to launch a round – and plenty of chances to noodle just the right lay-up or approach.
And wait; what about the heat? Death Valley is the hottest place on earth but, in fall, winter and early spring you can catch – as I did – some decent days. The low 90s felt good. Plus the use of shade along the course, particularly along cart paths, helps a lot.
Is this a spot you’d come to just golf? Perhaps not. But beyond that lush course lay endless other activities – like touring Badwater, the lowest spot in North America, or the “Devil’s Golf Course” (don’t bring your clubs; the name is a metaphor), hiking, lounging at the spring fed pools, and more. And you could – should you want – pair up a golf trip here with a round before and after in or near Vegas.
Furnace Creek Golf Club and the Oasis at Death Valley is the opposite of fluke. It’s a well-designed, super unique and absolutely memorable golf experience worth the trip. In other words, a totally party-chat golf story worth the telling: For all the right reasons.
