New York /
They left their communities in search of American dream. These mexican chefs have surprised the New York diners with the tough work they have to do.
Behind each dish well executed, There is a story behind that led them to be considered valuable chefs Because they put a fist and a half of desire, a lot of heart and a pinch of grace into everything. This is how they put the name of Mexico held high.
Víctor Pérez, 42 years old, originally from Tehuacán, Puebla
Currently it is chef at Il Mulinoone of the Italian restaurants with more than 35 years of culinary excellence and acclaimed in the American union; located in one of the most iconic corners of SoHothe fashion district in New York, offers an exquisite experience.
“I have been working at Il Mulino for 10 years. I started in other Italian restaurants in the area and from there I gained knowledge and through Italian friends I began to rise. “It was quite an experience,” he says.
An experience that It wasn’t easy when it arrived 21 years ago.because he confesses that he did not cook at all.
“Zero, necessity made me learn to cook. The most difficult was the crusade, three days and two nights in the Arizona desert. I was going with two friends, there were 70 people in the group but only about 30 people managed to cross. The migra chased us twice but I was a kid and they couldn’t reach me. They charged me $1,800, it was cheap at that time,” he remembers.
Being in the Big Apple had a great impact on him after noticing that it was a city where money could be generated quickly and like any migrant who recently arrived, he started cleaning bathrooms, but he had enough ambition to improve himself.
The preparation of its dishes such as lamb ribs, branzino or lemon beef picatta, has captivated the palates of celebrities such as Yankees player, Alex Rodríguez; Will Smith and his family, Maná and Ricardo Arjona, to name a few.
“My biggest advice for any Mexican who comes to the United States is to learn the language and a trade so that you can stand out. You cannot be a conformist and always be a dishwasher, we Mexicans cannot be ordinary. We have to lose fear,” he warns.
Victor works 10 hours a day and ensures that it has the freedom to experiment with dishes Although there is a menu that cannot be changed, it nevertheless prepares everything; Fresh pasta, seafood and select cuts of meat with extraordinary presentations.
“It is a very competitive place because there are many good restaurants and you have to be at the same level, there is a lot of fashion, diners with money and I feel the satisfaction of knowing where I come from and what I have achieved. In my town I struggled to eat and now I feel grateful. We Mexicans are good and we don’t let ourselves, we are capable of doing anything they tell us.”
Although for this chef, USA It has been a symbol of improvement, He states that he wants to return to Mexico once his youngest daughter comes of age. “I am aware that in this country over the years we become disposable,” he added.
Óscar Martínez, 40 years old, native of Toluca, State of Mexico
He arrived in New York 16 years ago. and currently it is chef at Pardon My Frencha restaurant located in Manhattan’s East Village, with a retro style that offers typical French bistro dishes and wines.
Its culinary specialty is French cuisine, among which Burgundy snails, beef tartare and duck confit stand out.
He confesses that at first he suffered discrimination due to the language barrier and that led to him not being taken into account, but his constant effort and skill in the kitchen began to be noticeable and his European bosses taught him French and Italian cuisine in depth.
“It’s not easy at all, I started cleaning restaurants at night and worked my way up, becoming a dishwasher and then a salad chef until I became a chef. I had very good teachers and I feel fulfilled, I feel like I am achieving my goals, I want my own restaurant, buy a house, I’m working on that,” he says.
Their empowerment in the American union has been based on a lot of effort and work. In addition to his work, recently opened a food truck in Queens bureaucalled Antojitos Juanita, in honor of her grandmother. Together with his partner, they sell authentic Mexican food.
Óscar assures that to live in the Big Apple requires at least two jobs, accompanied by a lot of motivation and discipline.
“One job is not enough, here you must have at least two jobs. In my case I pay a monthly rent of 3 thousand for an apartment with two bedrooms, a living room and a kitchen,” he explains.
In the future, the chef plans to return to Mexicoonce you obtain your papers which are in process.
“What I like most about NY are the income you can generate and the job opportunities, what I like the least is the stress of the city and that there is not much time to spend with the family,” he added.
Víctor Martínez, 39 years old, originally from Tlapa de Comonfort, Guerrero
His specialty is Turkish cuisine, he currently works at Wine Escape, an elegant space with an emphasis on traditional Mediterranean specialties, located a few blocks from the famous Times Square.
The marginalization in his town forced him to migrate to the United States when he was 16 years old, because from a young age he knew what work was.
“Since I was a child I had to work to be able to eat. I came with a cousin, immigration caught us and I managed to escape because I was good at running. I arrived with the intention of helping my parents and buying them a house,” he says.
It went from communicate in Tlapaneco dialect and sell clothes in the heart of the mountain to master English and prepare babaganoush in the downtown Manhattan.
“At first I didn’t know how to cook anything but here you learn whatever you have to and at first it is difficult because you don’t have the experience but with the passage of time you get used to it and find the easiest way to work, you learn different cuisines and now I do everything with confidence and without fear,” he says.
Víctor’s desire to improve himself is great, since in the last two years he has worked seven days a week without exception.
Although he misses his roots and life in the mountains, the man from Guerrero said he is not sure about returning to Mexico and for now will continue in the city that never sleeps.
What he likes most about New York is the gastronomic diversity and “the ease of getting things. The beautiful thing is multiculturalism. If you come with a strong mind and the desire to do something great, this city is for you.”
K.R.
